One of the most beautiful accessories to your 14th century outfit in my opinion, is a proper hood! It’s a very easy pattern to make witch let you have some more time for decoration!

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My noble husband posing!
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This is a pattern for a loose hood witch could be pulled on without a front opening. Draw a square with equal sides approx 30 cm, or measure on yourself how much you’ll need for your head to fit inside, especially if you’re not gonna have a front opening. Notice the fold at the top! Plan the cape/gorget and how long your liripipe will be and the face opening. For example the cape/gorget is 30 cm deep at the shoulder, my liripipe is a long one, about 1 meter and the face opening approx 4 cm. I also extended the back at the top with 4-5 cm and drew a nice curve down to meet up the neck. Also plan where you want to have your gussets, you will need one at the front as well if you want a buttoned opening. You could make one without gussets and just draw the back and front a few degrees higher, but then it won’t be as fitted. I suggest you try different versions by making toiles!


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I made a dark green hood and chose to line it with a lighter green, both materials is wool. Of course I wanted to have a fancy dagging at the bottom. I made a templet to make sure they would turn out the same.


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The gussets must have dagging as well. Make sure you measure carefully so the, in my case, leaves will end up even around the bottom of the hood.


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The lighter green will not have dagging and it will be about 5-6 cm shorter.


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Here’s the idea! I inserted the lighter green into the dark green hood wrong side against each other. The light green seams will show on a few places because of the dagging so I had to make sure they’d look good on both sides. I also made a few stitches in the gusset seam through both layers to keep them together and in place. Then I made a blanket seam with white linnen thread around the whole thing for prevent the woolen fabric not to fray (at least if it’s not milled), for decoration and to assemble the layers in the front opening.

I fastened the leaves on the light green layer with the split stitch I used for decoration. Hand dyed woolen thread in two different colors.

 

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The most common type of button for hoods seams to be the cloth button, if it even was a front opening that is. I chose to be a bit fancy and take the same sort of pewter buttons I used for my 14th c dress! Mind the stitching for the buttonholes so you don’t end up doing small blanket stitches. It’s important to get those small knots that appears when you do a proper buttonhole stitch! On this brilliant blog you can find more detailed instructions. They also shows how to do it if you’re left handed!


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And there we have it! With my beautiful swan and all! It’s a replica from a finding, late 14th-15th century.

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SignatureEddie

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